The art of making stained glass suncatchers and panels requires many tools and supplies, and I'm often asked about the specifics that I use.
I've compiled a comprehensive list of the items I personally use in my studio.
Scoring and Breaking:
Silver Metallic Sharpies - I've found the oil-based metallic sharpies to be the absolute best for tracing out your patterns onto glass. They don't easily come off while grinding, which is a huge plus. They can be cleaned off with alcohol.
Gold Metallic Sharpies - I like to use gold for light colored glass, and silver for dark colored glass. The markers work best if they're oil-based, the water-based come off very easily while grinding.
Creator's Beetle Bits System - I have and use this exact Beetle Bits glass cutting system. It's a little pricey, but well worth it in my opinion, especially if you plan to make a lot of geometric shapes.
Creator's Waffle Grid - If you're not sold on the Beetle Bits System, I at least recommend the waffle grid. It's the only thing I'll score and break my glass on. You don't have to sweep off glass shards after each break - the shards fall into the squares of the grid. When it gets full, I just vaccuum it out.
Toyo Pistol Grip Cutter- The pistol grip is the style of cutter I prefer. I've used a pencil grip on occasion, but I find the pistol grip allows me to score with enough pressure without fatiguing my hand. I can, and have, cut glass for 8 hours straight. No matter the style cutter you choose, Toyo is the best.
Studio Pro Glass Cutting Oil - I don't have a preference when it comes to cutting oil. Oil is oil to me, so I just use this Studio Pro one.
Silberschnitt Running Pliers - While these are not a necessity, they are great for difficult breaks by allowing you to applying pressure along the entire score line in increments. **Does not work as well with very thick glass.
Studio Pro Grozers - Grozers are great for breaking out small or narrow pieces of glass. I always have two pairs. I sometimes hold the glass with one pair of grozers and use the other pair to break the glass. Works like a charm!
Studio Pro 8" Running Pliers - I use the 8" running pliers to run long scores, and to break thicker glass. The longer handles and wider jaws give you more leverage.
Dragon 6" Running Pliers - The 6" running pliers are my go-to pliers for most smaller breaks. These pliers are smaller, lighter, and are good for gently opening the start of your score.
Grinders and saws:
Techniglass The Grinder - I've had this grinder for almost 2 years, and I absolutely love it! It's easy to clean, has a great storage bin. I love the splash guard and light shield. The bits don't last as long as my Glastar bits; however, the bits are much cheaper and super easy to change out. I do not have any complaints about this grinder yet.
Glastar All Star Grinder - My Glastar grinder is almost 40 years old, and still works wonderfully! This brand really stands the test of time. Unfortunately, these grinders are difficult to purchase right now because of an awful fire at the Glastar facility.
Finger Cots - I always wear these (just on my thumbs and pointer fingers) while grinding. They really save my fingers from cuts. Anna, from GaladrielGlassworks recommended these to me, and they are amazing!
Gemini Taurus 3 Ring Saw - In my opinion, it's important to master cutting and breaking with hand tools, before jumping into using a ringsaw. A ringsaw is such an expensive investment, that you don't want to rely on it for all of your cuts, just cuts that would be extremely difficult, time-consuming, or impossible by hand. I've used both a ringsaw and a bandsaw; while the bandsaw was great, the ringsaw allows more ease of freedom with your cuts, because the blade as a 360 coating of diamonds.
Morton Grinder Splash Guard - Some people like to put their grinders in a fish tank, I like to use a splash guard to protect my surroundings.
Foiling:
3/16 Black Backed Edco Foil - I always match my copper foil backing to my desired patina (unless the glass is opaque). 3/16" is great for thin glass, or if you just want thinner solder lines.
7/32 Black Backed Edco Foil - This is my go-to size for foil. Results in the perfect solder line size for my liking.
1/4 Black Backed 3M VentureTape Foil - 3M's Venturetape is another brand I like to use. You can get this foil in three different thicknesses: 1mm, 1.25mm, and 1.5mm
3/8 Copper 3M VentureTape Foil - I like to use 3/8" foil for my pressed flower pieces. I find that I don't have to do much or any trimming of the foil with this size.
Copper Foil Holder - I love this foil organizer, I have two to hold all of the foils that I use.
Embroidery Scissors - I was so annoyed with my scissors sticking together after cutting so much foil. Now I'll only use embroidery scissors. The scissors stay in an open position so the blades never stick together! AMAZING!
91% Isopropyl Alcohol - I clean all of my glass pieces with alcohol before foiling, to make sure all oils are removed.
Soldering:
Hakko Soldering Mat - I really like this soldering mat. It's easy to clean, and rolls up out of the way. You can't use push pins with this mat, so I have another item I use for soldering.
Ceiling Tiles - Cheap ceiling tiles from the hardware store work perfectly for laying out and soldering projects. I have a few 12"x12" tiles, and a couple 24"x24" tiles so I can layout multiple projects at once, and I can move them easily around my studio.
Morton Layout System - This system is perfect for laying out square or rectangular pieces, just use a square to layout a perfect 90 degree frame with the 6" (you can also get 17" blocks or a 12" and 3" bundle) blocks. You can also use the metal pushpins by themselves to hold irregularly shaped suncatcher in place.
Hakko Fx-601 - I currently use this Hakko iron, and in the past I've used a Weller. Both are great, in my opinion. Where the Hakko stands out though, is with its built in temperature control, and how quickly it heats up. This iron is also lightweight, which is a plus.
Hakko Soldering Iron Holder - You should always have a safe place to set down and store your irom. This holder does the job just fine. I prefer wiping my iron tip in the brass wool, but you can also get their newer design with cleaning sponge.
Sal Amoniac Bar - This is a must for tinning you iron tip and keeping it clean, which results in better soldering. You can also get tip cleaning paste, but I prefer the bar.
Classic 100 Gel Flux - In my opinion, this is the best flux there is for stained glass. It's a gel, so it stays in place, cleans up easily, and aids in achieving beautiful solder beads. I used to use Glastar Glasflux which does the job, but I prefer Classic 100.
Canfield 60/40 Solder - My go-to solder of choice. Not much to say.
Flux Brushes - I use these acid brushes to apply my flux. They're cheap, and you can get months of use out of one brush before needing to replace it.
Needle Nose Pliers - These pliers are great for holding jump rings in place while you solder, or for bending copper wire. Just pop into any hardware store, and you'll easilly find a pair.
Diagonal Cutters - I use these to cut lead came, zinc came, and chain.
Nitrile Gloves - I like to wear chemical resistant gloves while soldering, and handling lead.
Heat Resistant Gloves - I'll put one of these gloves on over my nitrile gloves while holding my piece to bead the edges. That way I don't burn my hand.
Chemicals (Cleaning, Patina, Misc):
CJ's Flux Remover - I use this cleaner for all of my stained glass projects (except pressed flower pieces). It does what it needs to do perfectly.
Kwik Clean - Because this cleaner does not require rinsing in water, it's perfect for cleaning flux residue off of pressed flower pieces - less chance of any liquid seeping under the foil and between your sandwiched glass.
Novacan Black Patina - The perfect black patina.
Novacan Copper Patina - Does any other brands even exist?
Clarity Finishing Compound - I would say Clarity and Liva are pretty much identical. They're both liquid waxes with a little bit of an abrasive component that helps to shine and protect the solder lines. I really love using clarity after copper patina.
Mother's California Gold Wax - unlike Clarity and Liva, this Mother's wax is pure carnauba wax with no abrasive elements. It's a great product to use over and over again on stained glass pieces for upkeep.
Pledge - I recently started using pledge, instead of Clarity, Liva, or Mother's on my pieces that I finished with black patina. Kara, from GlimpseGlass, recommended it, and I was not disappointed.
Mod Podge - I use mod podge to glue my pressed flowers to the glass.
Mirror Edge Sealant - Sealing your mirror edges is a must to protect against mirror rot. Some artists use clear nail polish, but I like to use the sealant spray to quickly cover all edges and the entire back of my glass.
Microfiber Cloths - An absolute must for buffing wax and polish!
Chains and Hanging Materials:
Anything in Stained Glass Chain
I buy all my chain from these two glass sites. Reasonably priced, and great quality!
Waxed Cord - I like to use waxed cord to hang small suncatchers and chimes. Make sure it's waxed though, as the wax protects thread from sun rot.
Faux Suede Cord - I also like to use faux suede cord for small and medium panels instead of chain sometimes.
Came and Framing Metals:
5/64" Hobby Came - This is the go-to hobby came to frame suncatchers. If your hobby came is kinked or wavy, you'll want to stretch it for sure. I always lightly stretch my hobby came, but it's not a neccesity when framing a small/medium copper foiled piece.
3/32" Lead Came (RU-01) - This came is almost identical to the 5/64th hobby came, the lip is just a teeny tiny bit thicker...like 1/64" thicker. lol
Zinc and Copper Came - Zinc, copper, and brass came are great materials to frame geometric panels. You can also buy bendable zinc for framing round panels by hand.
**Note: As an Amazon Associate I earn from qualifying purchases. However, I do personally use each item I listed, and I created this list to address all of your questions about the tools and products I use. Thank you.**